Friday, November 30, 2012

The Improved Starlet Jacket

Vogue 1132

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has princess seams, collar and lapels, and shaped hem.

Pattern Sizing: BB(8-10-12-14), FF(16-18-20-22). I started with size 8 and graded down to size 4, for the most part.

Fabric Used: Maggy London Paris Pink basket weave textured cotton suiting, lined with with Vera Wang silk check in pale pink. I dip dyed the lining for an ombre' effect to add visual interest to the inside of the jacket.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? As much as can be expected, considering the changes I made.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I rounded the corners on the collar and lapel and added an additional button to the center front to raise the neckline. I shortened the sleeves to ¾ length and I tapered them quite a bit. The original design features a "gored back (back is longer than front)" which verges on a bustle, 

so I toned it down to more of a peplum. The look I wanted was close to Gertie's Starlet jacket, but with more of flared peplum. This is a happy medium between the two.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't refer to them. I mainly followed the instructions in Jackets for Real People for the basics, including drafting and glue-basting back stay made of muslin.

 I also implemented the lapel wedge

and floating chest shield

per Marci Tilton's article on  Armani jackets.   I also taped the roll line and drafted my own lining pattern per Judy Barlup's tips.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the shoulder princess seams, and the stylish silhouette. The one-piece sleeve with elbow dart is a nice change from the tailored two-piece sleeves I've been sewing.

Would you sew it again? Yes; it was fast and easy to sew as far as jackets go, and I have some gray silk suiting lined up for it. Would you recommend it to others? Yes. This is a great pattern which can be easily modified to achieve the look of Gertie's Starlet Jacket, without having to deal with the poor drafting of her actual pattern.

Conclusion: This pattern is well drafted and has timeless style.

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