Thursday, May 1, 2014

The Houndstooth Peplum Jacket

The Inspiration:
Lauren Bacall in 'To Have and Have Not'Add caption

Ever since I saw this picture of Lauren Bacall's houndstooth jacket with the side cascading peplum, I've been wanting to recreate it. 

The pattern:
Vogue 1132

Pattern Description:  Semi-fitted, lined jacket with princess seams, collar and lapels, gored back (back is longer than front) and shaped hem. 

Pattern Sizing:  8-22.  I had to grade down to size 4 in the shoulders, back, and sleeves, and size 6 in the front.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  For the most part.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I didn't really refer to them.  I mainly went by memory from making previous jackets. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the shoulder princess seams and the classic style (minus the back bustle, of course).

Fabric Used:  Black and white mini houndstooth silk suiting, lined with with cotton/silk blend Elegance.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I modified the front to have three buttons, more like the inspiration piece.  The pattern has a one-piece sleeve with an elbow dart, which I used the first time around.  
This close-up shows a two-piece sleeve, so I substituted the sleeve pattern from McCalls 4928, which does hang and fit better.

Would you sew it again?  Probably not.  Two is enough for now.

Would you recommend it to others?  Yes. 

Conclusion:  This is a versatile pattern that can be tweaked to create classic wardrobe pieces.

With Wally

Contest details:
Suiting (1.5 yds at $21.62) = $32.43
Lining (1.5 yds at $3.40) = $5.10
Buttons (with Joanns coupon) = $.72
Total for materials = $38.25

I spent hours looking online for a similar jacket for pricing purposes.  The closest I found was this Alexander McQueen houndstooth fitted blazer, which that sold out at $1260.  Percentage saved = 97%.