The Little Black Dress

New Look 6886 

Pattern Description: This pattern features a flared skirt and simple back bodice (free of darts) which I love. These are the original elements of the pattern. 

The front bodice and back shoulder area are from Simplicity 2337 and the sweetheart neckline is from New Look 6723.
Pattern Sizing: 8-18. I graded down to size 6.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The parts that I did use, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I really didn't refer to them, since this was a frankenpattern dress.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The skirt has just the right amount of flare without being too full; and there are no gathers or darts to mess with.

Fabric Used: Black stretch cotton sateen, lined with plum stretch satin.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I shortened the skirt by about 4 inches.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, and yes.

Conclusion: This is a well-drafted pattern with many different elements to draw from.

The Improved Starlet Jacket

Vogue 1132

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has princess seams, collar and lapels, and shaped hem.

Pattern Sizing: BB(8-10-12-14), FF(16-18-20-22). I started with size 8 and graded down to size 4, for the most part.

Fabric Used: Maggy London Paris Pink basket weave textured cotton suiting, lined with with Vera Wang silk check in pale pink. I dip dyed the lining for an ombre' effect to add visual interest to the inside of the jacket.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? As much as can be expected, considering the changes I made.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I rounded the corners on the collar and lapel and added an additional button to the center front to raise the neckline. I shortened the sleeves to ¾ length and I tapered them quite a bit. The original design features a "gored back (back is longer than front)" which verges on a bustle, 

so I toned it down to more of a peplum. The look I wanted was close to Gertie's Starlet jacket, but with more of flared peplum. This is a happy medium between the two.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't refer to them. I mainly followed the instructions in Jackets for Real People for the basics, including drafting and glue-basting back stay made of muslin.

 I also implemented the lapel wedge

and floating chest shield

per Marci Tilton's article on  Armani jackets.   I also taped the roll line and drafted my own lining pattern per Judy Barlup's tips.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the shoulder princess seams, and the stylish silhouette. The one-piece sleeve with elbow dart is a nice change from the tailored two-piece sleeves I've been sewing.

Would you sew it again? Yes; it was fast and easy to sew as far as jackets go, and I have some gray silk suiting lined up for it. Would you recommend it to others? Yes. This is a great pattern which can be easily modified to achieve the look of Gertie's Starlet Jacket, without having to deal with the poor drafting of her actual pattern.

Conclusion: This pattern is well drafted and has timeless style.